Area 31

I’m disappointed that Chicago didn’t make Esquire’s list of the top 20 new restaurants in the country. In fact, I’m still a little shocked. With all of our culinary talent and buzzed-about openings and national award winners, how the hell did we fail to secure a spot on this coveted list?

I don’t have an answer for the glaring omission, but I did have the chance to dine at one of the honored hot spots. And after a multi-course eat-a-thon that included five different desserts, I have to admit that Area 31 – a sustainable seafood restaurant in downtown Miami – more than earned its top 20 title. It’s so good that I’ve actually been twice. The second time I traveled almost 40 miles to dinner and it was well-worth the nearly two hour commute for the massive meal. The eight wine and Champagne pairings didn’t hurt either.

As part of the Epic Hotel, Area 31 is a full-service restaurant that churns out breakfast, lunch, and dinner for a steady stream of hotel guests, local diners, tourists, and foodies. It’s upscale without feeling overtly fancy; a classy, serene space that overlooks the bay with a sizable deck. It’s a perfect muted backdrop for the food to take center stage. Chef John Critchley doesn’t just serve seafood; he sources sustainable fish from area 31 waters (hence the name of the restaurant) and local farms. The restaurant is even committed to donating a percentage of sales from the five-course tasting menu to support the Marine Mammal Conservancy of the Florida Keys. Eco-friendly seafood has never tasted better and I decided that over-eating might actually benefit the environment.  It’s a first, but my appetite and social conscience actually aligned.

The crudos – a well-edited selection of ceviche-like dishes and sashimi style cuts – were an ideal start to the meal. The marinated escolar was a personal favorite, paired with passion fruit, Peruvian pepper, radish, and mint. While I love sushi in Chicago, you can’t deny the advantage of a coastal restaurant in serving incredibly fresh, flavorful fish that never took an airplane ride to arrive on your plate. The seafood at Area 31 attains another level of quality, thanks to prime real estate on the ocean and one very discerning chef. I also hate to admit it, but their calamari made ours look like deep fried fish rings. The fritto misto I tasted was lightly battered and included a medley of rock shrimp, white fish, lemon, and caper berry. I’m now in serious danger of becoming a calamari snob.

While the restaurant is swimming in seafood, even steak-lovers will be pleasantly surprised. The spice-rubbed flat iron served with creamy white polenta and red onion marmalade is one of Area 31’s top sellers…and far better than I expected. Another unexpected discovery was the selection of pastas that should have local Italian eateries a little anxious. Ricotta gnocchi with tuna Bolognese and a mushroom risotto were perfectly prepared and almost addictive. Even the roasted chicken impressed my table…while competing for attention amongst a smorgasbord of appetizers, entrees, small plates, and sides.

Dessert is worthy of another culinary swoon. Pastry Chef Lynn Moulton has an eye for artistry and a gift for decadence. The chocolate and butterscotch creams paired with caramelized banana and hazelnut pannetone were sinfully good. Key lime tart transcended its reputation as a pie-shop staple with concentrated flavor and a hint of cardamom spice. I don’t even eat cheesecake, yet I couldn’t resist a bite of the cornmeal rosemary crust and creamy filling.

There are also a few things not on the menu that make the meal more memorable.  Presiding over the dining room as the consummate host and dining guide is the general manager, Carlos Bohen. Don’t leave without saying hello, asking for his recommendations, and if possible, having a beer together. His stories are one of the restaurant’s best specials. Also consult the sommelier, Michael Haycook, before even glancing at the wine menu. He’s a passionate connoisseur with excellent taste and a matching personality. And if you want to discover how good chardonnay can really be, ask for the Girard.

While I’m still dismayed that not one of Chicago’s fine-dining spots was recognized by Esquire this past year, I fully support the inclusion of Area 31 as one of 2009’s best new restaurants. However, we can take a cue from our beloved baseball team and rally behind this culinary cry…there’s always next year.