Follia

Who doesn’t like dining in style? At Follia, fashionable food takes on new meaning with the presence of well-dressed mannequins. The headless models in couture clothing are posed in the front windows and alongside the dining room wall, providing a glimpse of the runway from your table. While sumptuous Italian cuisine and high-end apparel might seem like an odd pairing, they blend beautifully in a restaurant that thrives on presentation.

While the West Loop might lack the international glitz and glamour of Milan, at least it can serve their signature cuisine. Aside from Follia’s dedication to fashion (and slight obsession with everything aesthetic), the restaurant is equally committed to authenticity. The pizza is prepared in a wood-burning brick oven and the pasta is homemade daily. Amazing enough, the only thing frozen in the kitchen is the gelato. The overt emphasis on freshly prepared, high-quality ingredients pays off – the thin-crust Margherita, simply topped with mozzarella cheese and fresh basil, disappeared from the table in mere minutes. Fold a steaming hot slice in half and savor the burst of flavor and the absence of fillings. Unlike the deep-dish chains dominating downtown Chicago that pile on layers of pre-made toppings, Follia’s version is refreshing straightforward and fresh.

During my visit, the pasta special – Tortelli Con Spinaci – was filled with a rich butternut squash and drizzled in brown butter with sage. It tasted like three winter holidays combined, while evoking heavy nostalgia for an Italian grandmother I don’t even have. Once again, the homemade pasta elevated the dish to another level, both for the enhanced taste and appreciation of the craftsmanship behind it.

The Caprese Di Bufala earned rave reviews at the table for the fresh Buffalo mozzarella cheese imported from Naples, which made a second appearance in the incredibly bountiful Antipasto Rustico platter. A miniature pre-dinner feast, the plate is well-stocked with everything from prosciutto and speck to roasted red peppers and marinated zucchini. The Rib Eye was like a dress that looked better on the rack. The presence of a red wine and strawberry demi-glace sounded enticing, but it didn’t help a piece of slightly chewy meat. However, the roasted garlic potato puree provided a redeeming side dish.

While staring at model thin mannequins might make you reconsider dessert, it would be a fashion faux-pas to skip such a satisfying final course. The Raspberry Sorbetto arrives floating in a Prosecco soup, an ideal companion for the Tortino al Cioccaloto, a decadent chocolate cake with a molten center. Add a glass of Moscato and you’ve had a full-fledged Italian meal that will never go out of style.