Graham Elliot

From the moment I entered Graham Elliot Bowles’ new restaurant, I was dizzy with a tizzy of questions. Why did a star chef from the tres fancy Peninsula open such a modest-looking venue? How can a much-buzzed about, trendy new restaurant in River North feel so laid back and comfortable? Where did he find such a genuine, cool staff? Why serve a bread basket when he can coat popcorn in garlic butter and call it a day? Who needs another demi-glaze when he’s got pop-rocks? Why use crème-fraiche when he can take a marshmallow and infuse it with chive simple syrup? (Duh.) Why cook up couscous or rice when there’s steel cut oatmeal? Why bother with dishes of all different shapes, colors and sizes when he can use the same style plate for everything? Why? Because Chef Bowles obviously believes that dining, specifically your dining experience¸ should be fun – not stuffy. And he doesn’t wanna bother with the dishes.

I definitely recommend sitting at the bar before your experience begins. Watching the pro-mixologist make your drink while explaining its origin is almost as fun as drinking it. Almost. Try the Blueberry Hill, made with Hendricks gin, Crème de Violette, blueberry compote and basil shrub. One of the freshest, cleanest “fruity cocktails” you’ll ever taste.

Highlights from his seasonal Fall menu include the flight of oysters, accompanied with champagne ice and cocktail foam and his baked potato bisque, mixed with marshmallows, pancetta and aged cheddar cheese – a perfect autumn starter. The bourbon and maple cured scallops with butternut squash puree and the olive-encrusted swordfish with lemon hummus were perfectly executed. Desserts are comprised of such ingredients as gingerbread cookies, Snickers bars, walnut brittle and apple paint: all lick-the-plate-til-its-gone good.

They say you can take the four-star chef out of the four-star restaurant, but you can’t take the four-star restaurant out of the chef. I think Graham Elliot proves that to be true. But in this case – I doubt he’d be thinking about traditional printed stars from some highly notable publication. He’d probably be thinking about Starbursts – the candy – and where he could use them next. Besides, Graham Elliot Bowles doesn’t seem to care as much about those printed stars as he does about his diner’s bemusement and enjoyment of his very cool, new spot. And, in turn, he scores some of the biggest points in town.