Friday, September 3rd, 2010
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Old Town Brasserie

this week's feature

Old Town Brasserie

Classic Never Goes Out of Style 1211 N. Wells St., Chicago | 312.943.3000 www.oldtownbrasserie.com

jessica speaks

It’s no secret that Old Town has been thirsty, er – hungry, for some new restaurant blood. Eivissa, The 33 Club and Old Town Social all opened within months of each other (the first spots to open on the North and Wells block in years) to the glee of many. And being a resident of the neighborhood, I have to admit they have been a long time coming. However, there is always something to be said for the classics. Especially when the classics spice things up a bit.

Case in point: Old Town Brasserie. It’s that upscale bistro known for high quality, fine French fare with a sophisticated crowd. But for those of you who may have passed this place by thinking it may be too upscale for a week night out (and in this economy, Cheeky doesn’t blame you), think again. Or, at least, Old Town Brasserie has done the thinking for you.

Every Monday, check out OTB’s “Monday Night Prix Fixe”, a three-course menu for only $32. (Note: entrees here run just around that price point, so this may be the best deal in the neighborhood.) That’s truly attributed, of course, to the quality and deliciousness of the food. Start the meal off with the Roasted Beet Salad: mixed greens, roasted beets, goat cheese encrusted with spiced nuts and finished off with an uber-light citrus vinaigrette. Or, in the spirit of fall, check out the Chickpea-Herbed Ricotta Ravioli: stuffed with braised lamb, mint, fava, English peas and topped with olive oil powder.

I am not one to really, ever order chicken as my course. (Like, ever.) But the Herb Roasted Amish Chicken, served with creamed spinach, frites and jus poulet sounded…intriguing. I am not exaggerating when I say it was one of the best chicken dishes I’ve ever had. I would come back to OTB on any night of the week just to order this. The chicken is served in three parts: two cuts of white meat breasts and one dark meat thigh. The sauce was abundantly savory with French herbs and rich with its touch of cream, however, did not overpower the combination of the chicken, spinach and frites. In a word: divine. Another dish not to be missed is the Steak Frites: perfectly cooked hanger steak (the chef’s recommendation was medium rare and he was spot on) with herbed butter and a red wine reduction.

There are only a few options for dessert and that’s all there needs to be. The soufflé was a foodgasmic version of this classic French staple, exploding with piping hot Grand Marnier and orange sauce. (Yeah – you heard me.) But it was the Honey and Sautern Poached Pears that stole the sweet show. With berry poached rhubarb, oatmeal cookie crumble, goat cheese anglaise and fresh thyme, Old Town Brasserie proved to not only be classic with a twist, but forever classic.

Somethings really never get old.

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